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Alberta - Mount Columbia
The highest mountain in Alberta is
Mount Columbia (3,747 metres) located on the boundary with British
Columbia in Jasper
National Park of Canada, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It
received its name in 1899 from the Columbia River, itself named
in 1792 by Captain Robert Gray, an American, for his vessel, the
Columbia.
Mount
Columbia
3,747 metres
12,293 feet |
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· Approach is through the Columbia Ice fields |
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· First summit in the Expedition |
| History |
Alberta's highest mountain is Mount Columbia (3,747 metres)
located on the boundary with British Columbia in the Rocky
Mountains. Named by J. Norman Collie in 1898 it received
its name from the Columbia River, itself named in 1792 by
Capt. Robert Gray, an American, for his vessel, the Columbia
who first ventured over a dangerous sandbar and explored
the lower reaches of the river.
Located on the continental divide at the head of the Athabasca
River Valley southwest of Columbia Glacier; Sir Winston
Churchill Range, Jasper Park, Alberta/BC border. Mount Columbia
lies on the northern edge of the Columbia Icefield, 9.7
km southwest of Snow Dome that may be seen from Highway
#93 N at the Icefields Centre on Sunwapta Pass.
But Mount Columbia is not the highest peak in the Rockies;
that claim belongs to British Columbia's Mount Robson, which,
despite an elevation of 3,954 metres, is still only the
twentieth-highest elevation in Canada. The origin of the
Robson name is uncertain. One story is that it may have
been named for Colin Robertson (1783-1842), a Hudson's Bay
Company trader.
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| Routes |
First ascended in 1902 by James Outram, guided by Christian
Kaufmann.
East Face (Normal Route) II - The classic ski route is up
the Athabasca Glacier, and onto the Columbia Icefield, camping
in the "trench" at the head of the Columbia Glacier.
Roped ski-ing, and whiteout navigation are essential techniques.
The peak usually doesn’t require crampons. The East
Face is considered the normal route up Mount Columbia.
A non-technical route leading to the highest summit in Alberta
and a popular route in the spring when the skiing on the
Icefields is at its best. It is usual to climb the E face
from a camp on the Icefield, usually in the "Trench",
a large east-west depression in the Icefield at the base
of the face. It involves a 450 m climb of up to 45-degree
snow and/or ice. Strong winds often blast the upper reaches
of the mountain and whiteouts are common. From the normal
base camp at the saddle of the trench, head west for 6 km
across a broad ridge to the base of the East Face. The route
follows the smooth snow ramp located left of the ice bulges.
At the bottom of the 450-m high face, go left for a couple
of hundred metres, staying above the lower crevasses but
below the upper crevasse. Skirt left of the upper crevasse
However; it has been day-tripped from the highway. Dougherty,
Selected Alpine Climbs page 204.
The southeast ridge of Mount Columbia is about the same
difficulty as going directly up the East Face. It is mostly
a snow scramble, although in places it is necessary to get
off the ridge and climb up the steep snow. Starting from
the Icefields Parkway, your first job is to get to the "Trench",
by either the Saskatchewan Glacier approach.
North Ridge V 5.7 W3 - A big climb in a remote setting.
An excellent route with lots of variety packed into almost
2000 m of climbing. While not technically desperate, it
is still not a route to be taken lightly. Dougherty, Selected
Alpine Climbs page 204.
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Alberta Hwy 93
– Icefield Parkway |
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Athabasca Glacier |
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6,700 Climbers
parking lot |
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7,400 Brewster
Transport area parking lot |
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8,900 3rd Icefield
to Columbia Icefield, large trench 7km east of Mt.
Columbia camp in or near trench |
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West towards Mount
Columbia, 4 km W to Base of Summit pyramid |
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East face left
side summit day gain 3,400/7km |
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